Covid-19: travel safely, travel smartly

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Sandsjöbacka Nature Reserve, just south of Gothenburg

I am an avid traveler myself and I was looking forward to our first trip this past summer. Everything went well and we are looking forward to our next trip and are planning something for Christmas & New Year.

Here’s the thing: if you love traveling, nothing will stop you (short of the travel bans we’ve experienced earlier this year.)

Travel has changed

But even if you love to travel, and I do, things have changed. You can’t just get on a plane and fly off, hoping everything will work out smoothly. You need to plan more and consider a few “what if” scenarios. Example: two days before we were due to fly to Switzerland, our home country of Sweden ended up on their quarantine list. Lucky for us, we flew in before the quarantine was enforced, but it also meant we were unable to leave the country and e.g. zip in and out of Italy (trust me, not easy in a small country like Switzerland.) Worse, in retaliation, the Swedish State Department took Switzerland off the “safe travel” list, which could’ve had serious consequences for us. More on that later.

Flying

Flying is still fun and exciting, even if wearing a mask. Photo: private

Flying has changed a lot. Not so much the experience onboard, but the before. Booking is more flexible, to allow for the uncertainties of travel bans, quarantines, and whatnot. The mask on board is going to be the least of your worries. It’s finding a flight that will reliably take you from A to B and back.

Right now, timetables change on a weekly basis, and if you were used to multiple flights from your airport to a hub, you may be lucky to have one per day. Interconnecting also means a lot more waiting time at airports, sometimes overnight, with all that entails.

Since travel is still down (83% here at the Gothenburg-Landvetter Airport), lounges and a lot of shops and restaurants are still closed. Make sure to fly early enough to account for schedule changes! Especially if you need to be somewhere at a certain time, e.g. a cruise departure.

Hotels

Given the breakdown in travel, hotels are desperate and now’s the time for some great treats. However, while you may get a cheap deal, make sure your hotel is reliable enough to actually still be open when you get there. The longer this pandemic lasts, the bigger the chances that some hotels will not survive. With more than 67% capacity this fall, this is also true for my home town, I’m afraid. Going for a bigger chain with larger financial muscles might provide a bit of reassurance. My tip: don’t pay in advance, but go for a rack rate and pay on site.

Guides, excursions, etc.

We are soon heading out for a cruise and our cruise ship will only allow us to leave the ship with a tour group organized by them. Not my preferred solution (I’m no fan of large groups) but in these circumstances, I think the precaution makes sense. It is to enable what is called a “social bubble” where only vetted (in this case tested) guests are together and do not come in touch with the dangerous outside world.

When you travel on your own, I suggest you create your own family or small group bubble. Make sure your guide is healthy (here in Sweden we follow the guidelines of our FHM, i.e the Swedish equivalent to the ECDC/CDC) and observing local recommendations/laws. The smaller your group is the better. Right now, traveling in larger groups is not advisable, especially not for longer periods of time.

Insurance

The author of this post and owner of Gothenburg Tours

I mentioned the Swedish government’s travel guidelines. We learned upon coming home that our travel insurance had been voided the second Sweden ‘banned’ (i.e. recommended not to travel to) Switzerland. That included both travel and healthcare insurance. Had any family member gotten sick or had anything happened to us, we would’ve had to pay for everything on our own.

To avoid such costly adventures, I warmly recommend you check your insurance coverage and suggest you try and find insurance that also covers you during this pandemic, i.e. if you can find one. Our cruise line offers a package for our coming trip. Check if your airline does or talk to your insurance company. You never know…

Travel is still a lot of fun if you’re prepared!

Gothenburg, while a large city, has much to offer if you stay away from the few crowded areas (railway station, malls, a few downtown streets.) Right now is actually a very good time to travel here because there are so few people here, especially if you enjoy the outdoors. Come back for museums (which are open), concerts and amusement parks next year.

Nothing will stop me from enjoying my travel. But I choose my destinations wisely (i.e. off the beaten track, monitor case prevalence, etc.) and I am prepared as much as I can for the unforeseen.

Hans M Hirschi

Covid-19: We’re still here, so is Gothenburg & Sweden

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These are unprecedented times. A ding-ding world. If anyone had patented these sentences, they’d be rich. Alas, as hollow as they sound, they form the beginning of countless messages from companies, organizations, and governments with regards to covid-19 aka “novel coronavirus” these days. I haven’t written on this blog for a while because we were occupied by other things. However, an email from a potential client got me to think about the future.

The sun rises above Sweden every morning. Luckily for us, some things don’t change.

We’re in hibernation, but everything is still here

I’m not going to comment on Sweden’s strategy fo fight covid-19 or how we’re different. The basic approach is the same in most countries but the tactics differ. We have successfully flattened the infamous curve and our health care system–strained like elsewhere–is coping.

Because we were (legally) unable to completely shut down our country, I would guess that Sweden will be less “damaged” than other economies. While our hotels see the number of occupied beds over at 8-10% and we’ve had ONE flight daily at our international airport for a good six weeks (none domestic), there is hope. Restaurants are open, properly socially distancing (fewer tables, no bar or self-service) and about a month before the summer season kicks off, there is a chance that we can see a slow return to a “new normal”.

Will Sweden be open this summer?

I have no crystal bowl, so please take the following with a scoop of salt, but here are a few things I see:

  • Museums: many are talking about re-opening soon, using different tactics to make sure to keep visitors safe, e.g. limiting the number of visitors, etc.
  • Restaurant: are open
  • Hotels: are open. If travel restrictions ease domestically, we expect a lot of Swedes to vacation domestically this summer
  • Beaches: okay, we’re not Italy or Spain or Florida, but we have beaches and they are public and our local “CDC”, Folkhälsomyndigheten, is going to issue rules on how to sunbathe/swim safely this summer. Social distancing applies.
  • Cruises/tours: Oh my, that’s the difficult one, isn’t it? When will cruises resume? We were scheduled for one in late June and it was canceled, so nobody really knows whey they resume operation and if some countries will apply different rules than others. We simply don’t know yet, but I would assume that things will relax at some point and that visitors will be welcome, given proper social distancing on tour buses, etc.
  • Public transport: open and functioning, but alas, social distancing is paramount and this is the most challenging aspect, as buses, streetcars, and ferries are often tight spaces. Our local boats to the archipelago have limited the number of passengers and tourists risk being stranded as locals and their necessary trips (to work, etc.) are given priority.
  • Trains/flights: Trains have never ceased running, even though their schedules have been greatly reduced. Flights have ceased between major cities but not to the rural areas where they are a vital part of the infrastructure, sustained by government funding. However, we can see a gradual return to normalcy. SAS is once again flying between Stockholm and Gothenburg, and Lufthansa has announced a daily flight between Gothenburg and Frankfurt starting May 18. Please note that things can change quickly and that different airlines apply different rules for flights, for instance regarding face masks.

So what does this mean for a trip to Sweden?

Plenty of space and no one in sight…

If I were wanting to visit Sweden this summer, I would try to wait with any booking. We just don’t know what might happen yet. Our Public Health Agency seems to doubt that we’ll be able to vacation internationally this summer and they are not even sure if domestic vacations will be possible. The Swedish State Department has issued a travel advisory against any foreign travel until June 15. I don’t think we’ll get any updates before that, Depending on how you will travel to come here, you also need to consider any transit countries.

The safest bet is to wait and see. Don’t book quite yet. But rest assured that Sweden is waiting for you in all its beauty and with all the vast open spaces we offer, providing ample opportunities to discover our nature in a safe way even in the future. Whenever we open up for business again, we’ll welcome you with open arms, although we might need to abstain from a warm hug until we have a vaccine against covid-19.

Welcome back then!

Storytelling: the answer to a question I’m asked a lot

Being a tour guide, meeting people all the time, I’m often asked questions…

This has been a busy summer. Lots of tours, lots of guests that I have had the privilege to show around my city and West Sweden. And every time I meet guests, we talk (duh!) And every time, invariably, as we get to know each other, at some point questions will be asked about why I’ve become a tour guide. So here’s the answer: storytelling.

From Training Executive to Author and Tour Guide? How?

Storytelling is an integral part of training, writing, consulting, and being a tour guide.
Storytelling is an integral part of training, writing, consulting, and being a tour guide.

This might feel like a huge stretch, but actually, is not. I like to think of storytelling as the clip that holds it all together. When I first started out as a trainer, telling stories was a way to help me pass on knowledge to my students. Mind you, it is more complex, and I’m simplifying for the sake of this post. Storytelling has always played a major role in training and education.

The same is obviously true for writing books. Books are basically stories, and I won’t lie that I often view my books as lessons to humanity, stories about humankind. From there, the step to touring isn’t long. I love to tell stories about my city, not just about its interesting history. I use stories to explain the sights, anecdotes that can be funny, thought-provoking, etc.

Whether it’s the story about how Gothenburg was founded, the story of how it became the rich city with all the donations from the “founding fathers”, to the story of the challenges we face going forward.

Storytelling and then some…

Storytelling has always been at the core of what I do.
Storytelling has always been at the core of what I do.

Besides, visiting a city, traveling is all about learning. When you book a tour it obviously means you are curious to learn about the place you’re visiting, the people living there, the culture, the food, its history, etc. And storytelling is really the oldest form of learning. It goes back to the very beginnings of humankind. I once explained that in a video for my consulting business, which is yet another way for me to use storytelling to help clients.

Do you have a question for me? Let me know. I’m sure I can weave a little story around it…

What kind of tourist are you?

Whenever I have the pleasure of taking guests to show them my city I wonder: will they be happy to see things from the outside or would they rather go inside? This might sound like a weird question to you, but allow me to explain. One of the most frequent things I do is walking tours. I pick up my guests at their hotel and we go for a walk where I show them the beauty of Gothenburg.

Would you like to go inside?

Would you like to go inside? Is it worth it? Is it even possible?

There are so many great things to see in a city, but when you have a limited amount of time, we tend to simply scratch the surface. We walk past some of the most amazing buildings but don’t go in. We point out “here’s this museum, and this is City Hall, and over there is where the local parliament resides, and it’s a beautiful building.” We never go inside which is a shame.

There are two main reasons why: a) most buildings aren’t open to visitors, which is a shame. Our local stock exchange is one of the most impressive places we have to show, but it’s only open once every blue moon at specific times, which never suits visitors from abroad. I can tell them that their president or prime minister had dinner here with our king, but I can’t show them.

The second reason is time. Even if the building were open, if you have four hours for a walking tour, there’s not time to spend one or two hours in just one building.

You need a reason to come back…

Prosecco on St. Mark's Square and live music at night is one of the "musts" for me in Venice, no matter how many times I return.
Prosecco on St. Mark’s Square and live music at night is one of the “musts” for me in Venice, no matter how many times I return.

This is my MO for every place I visit: I miss something important, simply because I’d like to come back. And on a second visit, I may not have to do the “usual” again, but I can dive deeper. I’ve been to Venice countless times since I was a child, and while I have my “have to’s”, e.g. to drink a glass of Prosecco on St. Mark’s Square after dark and listen to live music, these days, my visits to this amazing city allow me to visit places most first-time visitors don’t see.

As a tour guide here in Gothenburg, I kind of see it as my responsibility to water my guests’ mouths, to make them want to come back for more. It’s a delicate balance and I always make sure to learn about hteir interests ahead of time, to make sure they experience exactly what they want, whether it’s walking past a building or going in (if possible.)

National Geographic wants you to… visit Gothenburg!

I can’t blame them…

Gothenburg is a heavenly destination for foodies. I’ve always known that. Well, maybe it hasn’t always been, but the chefs here in town have a thing or two for fish and seafood and in the past decade or so, plenty of amazing restaurants serve superb food.

I recently came across this article on National Geographic where they point out Gothenburg as a top destination in 2019 to visit if you love food. Who am I to argue with National Geographic?

They particularly point to “Salt & Sill”, a restaurant about 90 minutes north of Gothenburg on the small island of Klädesholmen. I was there just last week and can confirm that it’s still an amazing place. I reviewed it on my TripAdvisor account.

But that’s not the only great place in the region

There are so many more great places to eat, even in the city itself. Some I’ve written about in my DIY-guide which you can purchase right here on the site. But let me just mention one of my personal favorites. Expensive, but amazing food: Sjömagasinet.

I was there last week and the food is superb. Below’s what my dessert looked like. And it was as delicious as it looks. So come visit Gothenburg, from food trucks to the best experimental cuisine, we’ve got you covered!

Amazing strawberry dessert with Swedish “egg-cheese” (ask me for a recipe) and meringues.

Impressions of Gothenburg

This past week we’ve had non-stop guests and I’ve taken them all over the city and region. Here are some impressions for you to enjoy:

If you’d like to see this or anything else the city has to offer, feel free to reach out. We’d love to show you our city and its surroundings.

Guiding our most valued guests to the West Coast

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This week, my dad is visiting us. I still remember the first time he came to see me here in Sweden. To show him my new home town is always an honor, and slightly scary. Will he approve? We’ve just spent two days on the West Coast, and he liked it, despite the cold and windy weather, something even the best guide isn’t able to influence.

Nobody’s as honest and critical as family

If you think that guiding your family is easier than clients? Think again. And to think you get any favors? No sir. Guiding family (and friends) is not a grateful job, but it provides great opportunities to learn and grow, not to mention test new things, try new restaurants (or make sure known ones are still up to par), etc.

A trip to the West Coast

Dad has been here many times over the years, and yesterday and today, I took him back to some of the places he’d been to before, although it’s been many years. He’d mostly forgotten and this time the weather was better.

We covered Marstrand yesterday, a small island city off the coast about 40′ drive north of Gothenburg, and today we drove even further, although we ended up just a good 15′ boat ride north of Marstrand, on the island of Tjörn and its outlying isles of Klädesholmen, Åstol, and Dyrön.

Good food and amazing nature to round off a successful day

Our first stop for today was Skärhamn, a coastal town on the island of Tjörn. It is famous for it’s arts museum, focusing on aquarelle paintings. But it also sports a beautiful harbor and a smiling church.

After a quick coffee (it was cold) we took the ferry from Rönnäng on a short trip around to Åstol (beautiful on a sunny, calm summer’s day), and Dyrön. Afterward, I drove us back to Klädesholmen for lunch at Salt & Sill. That little islet is famous for herring canneries and boy, their lunch is good. Six varieties of herring as an appetizer, followed by a fish burger with mashed potatoes and pees. Yummy!

Enjoy some pictures of today’s trip:

Practical Information

To visit Marstrand from Gothenburg (incl. Carlsten fortress) you’ll need about five hours, two of which you’ll spend getting to and fro the city. In the summer, with a lot of tourist traffic, you may need to allocate more time as parking is scarce and you may need to walk longer from the parking lots to the ferry.

Tjörn and its islands are also a good hour and fifteen minutes away from Gothenburg, further north, but there’s more time on the freeway, so you cover more ground. Again, summer traffic will add time, particularly as you cross the bridge over to Tjörn. We’ve literally spent hours in queues. Parking is a thing, too and you may need to leave your car up to a kilometer or more from ferries, harbors, etc. The town roads are very narrow and you share the space with walking visitors and locals. Be mindful and patient. Five to six hours is recommended. If you visit Åstol or Dyrön, be mindful of the ferry timetable. Summertime (June-Aug) you might find an open café or restaurant, but off season, expect to eat on Tjörn or simply bring your own lunch.

Expect the unexpected when you tour with us

I could promise you the moon, but I won’t…

What I can promise you though is the unexpected. Something you might not have thought about, or even considered with regards to my town. Yeah, I claim total bragging rights here, I know.

Let your soul dangle for a bit

When people think about Gothenburg, associations vary. Most people probably haven’t heard of our fair city, that we are home of the world’s largest truck manufacturing company, AB Volvo, or that we were once a sneeze away from becoming the capital of all Nordic countries. It’s a long story…

We are a great many things, and we have much to offer. I’m sure you’ll have seen that Gothenburg sits right on the ocean’s edge, on Sweden’s west coast. But did you also know that we are one of the greenest cities on the planet? There are parks, forests, and meadows surrounding the city and permeating it everywhere.

That greenery can also be found on our islands. On Styrsö, where I live, we have some twenty plus kilometers of official hiking trails along beaches, through our villages and the forest. You’d never know you’re on an island. Today, I was out walking and stopped to just listen to the birds singing. It’s a 360º view of what I say, just so I could capture the song. Don’t get dizzy. Close your eyes and let that soul of yours dangle for sixty-one seconds:

Yes, this video was taken on a small island just off the coast of Gothenburg, less than 300 meters from the nearest beach, but you’d never guess. This is one of the secret hikes on the island, known only to locals.

No matter what it is you expect to see in Gothenburg, expect the unexpected.

That’s a promise! Feel free to contact us today for a personal quote for your tour of our fair city. We’ll make sure to meet your expectations, and yeah, surpass those…

Gothenburg on your own? Buy our easy DIY guide!

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It includes over 100 tips for places to see and things to do.

I’ve lived here since 1992 and having moved here highly interested in this country and the region, I travel a lot, and I’ve been to a great many places. I’ve helped visitors discover Gothenburg and the west coast ever since. I know a thing or two about the area. While my speciality is to guide people with very distinct tastes and the highest demands, I understand that there is a market for other types of tours, from walking tours of an hour or two, to hop-on-hop-off tours etc. All good.

“I’m a backpacker…” or “I just don’t need a guide”

Spring is in the air, and the sun is shining.
Spring is in the air, and the sun is shining.

I hear you. I’m not unlike you. I love to discover places on my own. Not always, but sometimes. A couple of years ago, heading to Madeira, we got in touch with a local guide who’d put together a list of his fifty personal favorites. With that list we were able to prepare for an amazing vacation, all by ourselves.

I figured, why not provide a list of my personal favorites as well. And not just include sights, but also include a couple of personal favorites when it comes to hotels, restaurants, cultural places, even sporting arenas. And I’ve been to each and everyone, so I know what I’m getting you into… Although, with sports, there’s no guarantee your team will win!

100+ places, and it’s yours if you want it.

The cover page of the guide
The cover page of the guide

In this first edition, there are over one hundred places listed. Some you’ll see in five or ten minutes, others might take you weeks. Some are within the city, some are almost 200 km away. Still West Sweden. It’s a large country.

Some are expensive, some are dirt cheap, free even. I think there’s plenty for most people. And here’s how it works. Send me a donation of your choice and you’ll automatically be sent to a page where you can download the twenty-five-page document. Super easy and convenient. And you don’t need a PayPal account for this to work. Any credit card will do.

So why would anyone still need a guide?

Easy! A lot of people don’t want to sieve through a ton of information, read tourist guides, etc. Also, they want to be able to ask questions, learn details about each site. Sometimes I don’t know the answer, but I know where and how to find it, in a timely fashion, while the guest enjoys their stay.

Most of my guests will simply tell me about their interests, likes, and dislikes and they trust me to prepare a tour that will satisfy those expectations and hopefully exceed them. To prepare for every guest individually takes time, and that time needs to be paid for somehow, hence a higher cost than for an off-the-rack tour which requires no preparation, as it’s the same, every time.

I hope you’ll enjoy this guide. As always, if you have questions, don’t hesitate to call me.

The best partners make a tour truly great.

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The statue of the founder of the current "incarnation" of Gothenburg, celebrating its 400th anniversary in two years.
Downtown Gothenburg.

Last week, I had the privilege of guiding a group of VIP travelers for a couple of days. Distinguished individuals, well educated and widely traveled, they were asking for a tour guide to show them Gothenburg the way an official guide never could: 100% flexible, with the ability to hold a conversation not just about historical details of a particular building or a king’s birthday, but also talk about the big political trends, socio-economic trends and things happening elsewhere in the world. Today’s global travelers expect nothing less.

Being a great guide isn’t enough…

While I pride myself in my work and can see how pleased my guests are with the service and the attention they get, entirely customized on their needs, my services have limits. I require partners to work with. I’m no restaurant (and even if I were, I’d just be one), I’m no limo or bus, no museum and I’m certainly no yacht. To provide my guests with a seamless experience, I need help, and last week was exemplary.

Arranged by their hotel, Sweden’s finest, the Upper House, the guests also had access to a driver for their time here and on Saturday, we took a tour of my home turf, the archipelago, in a beautiful yacht.

The best partners are the ones you don’t notice…

Traditional boathouses on the island of Brännö.
Traditional boathouses on the island of Brännö.

For a guest, the best partners a guide can have are the ones that go unnoticed. To be a driver means to take the guest from A to B as comfortably and safely as possible. It was a delight to work with Gothia Transfer. Our driver was probably the best one I’ve ever experienced. As a guide, sitting in the front passenger seat of comfortable and perfectly clean luxury vehicle, with my neck turned back to my guests, I didn’t even notice how we were crossing town, or what way our driver took. Suddenly we were there. Perfect. And the communication between ourselves to make the experience for our clients as smooth as possible couldn’t have been better. Highly recommended and I hope to work with them again soon. I’ll most certainly recommend my clients to work with Gothia Transfer from now on.

The company we used on Saturday, the Sealife, is a truly magnificent vessel. Clean, in perfect shape and a skipper family completely dedicated to their guests. They take the best possible care of their clients and just like I had with Gothia Transfer, to work with Gothenburg Coast Charter was a pleasure and perfectly seamless. Our guests were really happy with their tour.

Restaurants, museums, etc.

Guests need to eat, they want to see museums, and nobody knows their collections better than the curators who created them. I was really pleased to see how the people I worked with were welcoming us and did their utmost to be flexible and help me make sure the clients were happy. In my own travel, I’ve had far too many experiences when you end up at the guide’s cousin’s husband’s restaurant, making me wonder if we ended up there because it was good or because the guide got a kick-back. My take is different (I have no cousins in Gothenburg…) I will only take my guests to a place I’ve been to myself, where I can vouch for the quality of the food and service.

When can I show you my town and introduce you to some amazing partners? Gothenburg is open and welcomes visitors…