On the hunt for prehistoric Gothenburg

Imagine a glacier a couple of miles thick, weighing heavily upon the Scandinavian peninsula, a colossal monstrosity extending from the Arctic Circle all the way down to continental Europe. But with a warming planet, the glacier is slowly retreating. In its wake, humans are slowly migrating north following animal herds, e.g. reindeer and their predators: wolves, bears, and wolverines: prehistoric Gothenburg!

Five thousand years ago

People have been living in the area that is present-day Gothenburg for at least twelve thousand years! We know that because of the neolithic traces left behind, such as what is called “Drottning Hackas Grav”, which was found in 1978 and had to be moved 30 ft to avoid being destroyed by a road being built on the site. This stone-age gravesite is the oldest “building” or construction in the city dating back some five thousand years.

Gothenburg's oldest known (!) construction
Queen Hacka’s Grave, the oldest known construction in Gothenburg

Three thousand years ago

As the glaciers retreated, a weight was literally lifted from Scandinavia, and ever since then, the peninsula has been rising from the ocean. This can still be witnessed in Northern Scandinavia where ocean levels are dropping, despite the current climate change actually increasing sea levels. Here in the south, oceans are beginning to wise again, outpacing the millimeter or so the land rises from the ocean. But thousands of years ago, the landscape here, the shorelines, looked radically different, and many of the archeological finds were on shorelines, including the above gravesite.

Another amazing find here in town is this wall with rock paintings. These paintings date three thousand years back. They aren’t very accessible, but I’m happy to take you to see them. There aren’t many rock paintings in southern Sweden and this one is really beautiful.

!Three thousand-year-old rock paintings on a cliffside in Gothenburg. Awe-inspiring.

Bronze-age petroglyphs

While the most famous petroglyphs in Sweden are an hour’s drive north of Gothenburg, part of the UNESCO World Heritage site at Tanum, there are several sites in the city as well, and most likely many more that have not yet been discovered. Near the harbor is another prehistoric Gothenburg site that may be difficult to access, but that rewards with ship carvings, balls, and a sun (?) wheel. Can you find the carvings in this photo?

Gothenburg Rock Carvings
The Rock Carvings in Vikan, Gothenburg

There is a lot more to see and explore in our city, and it can be combined with visits to Tanum and/or more conventional sightseeing. Prehistoric Gothenburg is always worth a visit, and so are the five-thousand years that followed!

Restarting tourism, responsibly

The past two years have been unreal for all of us in the tourism industry. The pandemic has reduced global travel to virtually nothing, and almost overnight, all bookings disappeared. We were no exception. And to be honest, we don’t really know how long it is going to take for things to recover, for people to start traveling again; to discover new places, learn new things. Restarting tourism is important for the livelihood of many, but it’s challenging.

Plenty of risks left

Styrsö Halsvik

Yes, we are thinking about the war in Ukraine, and the fallout not just for the people directly affected by Russian war atrocities. What are the economic consequences for the rest of the world? What happens to fuel prices will impact prices for airfare, buses & taxis. It will also impact food prices. Then there are the environmental consequences of climate change to be considered. How will this impact the recovery of travel? Finally, how long will the fear of the pandemic keep people from moving freely? There are no definitive answers to all of this.

We are ready, and we are planning

After every sunset, there will be another day dawning!

We are ready to welcome you back to Gothenburg, transporting small groups in our Tesla 3, safely and without impacting the climate negatively. We also work with our partners to make sure your visit to Gothenburg is safe, and we focus more and more on natural sights.

Sadly, there’s not much we can do to impact the world around us, apart from our personal engagement in supporting friends in need. We also donate to worthy causes, like the International Red Cross et al.

Travel is all about meeting people

We have always believed that travel connects people, builds bridges. It is a conviction strongly embedded in everything we do. It is through those meetings we learn about the human condition, what unites us across the planet, rather than what divides us. And we look forward to welcoming you to our city and region to show you the natural beauty of our land, the culinary and cultural delights, and the friendliness of Sweden. Meanwhile, why not follow our new Instagram account, and be inspired by some of the photos we have taken throughout the years?

Happy 400th Birthday, Gothenburg!

Dear home town!

Today you celebrate your fourth centennial. That is quite the accomplishment. Now mind you, I realize of course that you are much older than that. We know that settlements along the Göta River date back to the Stone Age. Alas, it wasn’t until June 4th, 1621, that the current installment of Gothenburg actually survived to the modern-day. Every previous attempt at building a city on the mouth of the river was destroyed by our friendly neighbors, the Danes. At the time, they ruled the land south (Halland, Skåne) and north (Bohuslän, Norway.)

Tower of the church named “Masthuggskyrkan” in the foreground and cityscape in the background in Gothenburg, Sweden. View toward the west.

Walking through town, there are reminders everywhere about your third centennial celebration. Oddly, due to “delays” (we Gothenburgers excel at that…), we didn’t really celebrate your birthday until 1923. Funnily, the pandemic and other “delays” force us to delay the fourth centennial celebration, too. Therefore, our amusement park, Liseberg, will unveil a huge expansion, not this year, but in1923, their centennial. Therefore, many of the amazing building plans that were scheduled for this year won’t be done. But we can see them rise and if we grow tired of the hustle and bustle of downtown, your islands, lakes, the ocean, and forests beckon us to relax and recharge our batteries.

Gothenburg city center by night. Construction ongoing for the new city bridge, the new train tunnel and several skyscrapers.

We got a new bridge across the river, and when you go downtown (which we’ve been avoiding during this pandemic, as much as humanly possible) you see construction going on everywhere: skyscrapers, train tunnels, tram tracks, you name it. Gothenburg is rapidly transforming into a 21st-century city, including a building taller than any other in Scandinavia.

Reanimating an old tourist slogan, here’s my greeting to my home town on your big day: Göteborg, we ❤️ you! (Please note this video is 14 years old, at least… LOL)

If you plan to visit Gothenburg, let me know. I’d be happy to show you my home town.

Covid-19: travel safely, travel smartly

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Sandsjöbacka Nature Reserve, just south of Gothenburg

I am an avid traveler myself and I was looking forward to our first trip this past summer. Everything went well and we are looking forward to our next trip and are planning something for Christmas & New Year.

Here’s the thing: if you love traveling, nothing will stop you (short of the travel bans we’ve experienced earlier this year.)

Travel has changed

But even if you love to travel, and I do, things have changed. You can’t just get on a plane and fly off, hoping everything will work out smoothly. You need to plan more and consider a few “what if” scenarios. Example: two days before we were due to fly to Switzerland, our home country of Sweden ended up on their quarantine list. Lucky for us, we flew in before the quarantine was enforced, but it also meant we were unable to leave the country and e.g. zip in and out of Italy (trust me, not easy in a small country like Switzerland.) Worse, in retaliation, the Swedish State Department took Switzerland off the “safe travel” list, which could’ve had serious consequences for us. More on that later.


Flying is still fun and exciting, even if wearing a mask. Photo: private

Flying has changed a lot. Not so much the experience onboard, but the before. Booking is more flexible, to allow for the uncertainties of travel bans, quarantines, and whatnot. The mask on board is going to be the least of your worries. It’s finding a flight that will reliably take you from A to B and back.

Right now, timetables change on a weekly basis, and if you were used to multiple flights from your airport to a hub, you may be lucky to have one per day. Interconnecting also means a lot more waiting time at airports, sometimes overnight, with all that entails.

Since travel is still down (83% here at the Gothenburg-Landvetter Airport), lounges and a lot of shops and restaurants are still closed. Make sure to fly early enough to account for schedule changes! Especially if you need to be somewhere at a certain time, e.g. a cruise departure.


Given the breakdown in travel, hotels are desperate and now’s the time for some great treats. However, while you may get a cheap deal, make sure your hotel is reliable enough to actually still be open when you get there. The longer this pandemic lasts, the bigger the chances that some hotels will not survive. With more than 67% capacity this fall, this is also true for my home town, I’m afraid. Going for a bigger chain with larger financial muscles might provide a bit of reassurance. My tip: don’t pay in advance, but go for a rack rate and pay on site.

Guides, excursions, etc.

We are soon heading out for a cruise and our cruise ship will only allow us to leave the ship with a tour group organized by them. Not my preferred solution (I’m no fan of large groups) but in these circumstances, I think the precaution makes sense. It is to enable what is called a “social bubble” where only vetted (in this case tested) guests are together and do not come in touch with the dangerous outside world.

When you travel on your own, I suggest you create your own family or small group bubble. Make sure your guide is healthy (here in Sweden we follow the guidelines of our FHM, i.e the Swedish equivalent to the ECDC/CDC) and observing local recommendations/laws. The smaller your group is the better. Right now, traveling in larger groups is not advisable, especially not for longer periods of time.


The author of this post and owner of Gothenburg Tours

I mentioned the Swedish government’s travel guidelines. We learned upon coming home that our travel insurance had been voided the second Sweden ‘banned’ (i.e. recommended not to travel to) Switzerland. That included both travel and healthcare insurance. Had any family member gotten sick or had anything happened to us, we would’ve had to pay for everything on our own.

To avoid such costly adventures, I warmly recommend you check your insurance coverage and suggest you try and find insurance that also covers you during this pandemic, i.e. if you can find one. Our cruise line offers a package for our coming trip. Check if your airline does or talk to your insurance company. You never know…

Travel is still a lot of fun if you’re prepared!

Gothenburg, while a large city, has much to offer if you stay away from the few crowded areas (railway station, malls, a few downtown streets.) Right now is actually a very good time to travel here because there are so few people here, especially if you enjoy the outdoors. Come back for museums (which are open), concerts and amusement parks next year.

Nothing will stop me from enjoying my travel. But I choose my destinations wisely (i.e. off the beaten track, monitor case prevalence, etc.) and I am prepared as much as I can for the unforeseen.

Hans M Hirschi

Covid-19: We’re still here, so is Gothenburg & Sweden

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These are unprecedented times. A ding-ding world. If anyone had patented these sentences, they’d be rich. Alas, as hollow as they sound, they form the beginning of countless messages from companies, organizations, and governments with regards to covid-19 aka “novel coronavirus” these days. I haven’t written on this blog for a while because we were occupied by other things. However, an email from a potential client got me to think about the future.

The sun rises above Sweden every morning. Luckily for us, some things don’t change.

We’re in hibernation, but everything is still here

I’m not going to comment on Sweden’s strategy fo fight covid-19 or how we’re different. The basic approach is the same in most countries but the tactics differ. We have successfully flattened the infamous curve and our health care system–strained like elsewhere–is coping.

Because we were (legally) unable to completely shut down our country, I would guess that Sweden will be less “damaged” than other economies. While our hotels see the number of occupied beds over at 8-10% and we’ve had ONE flight daily at our international airport for a good six weeks (none domestic), there is hope. Restaurants are open, properly socially distancing (fewer tables, no bar or self-service) and about a month before the summer season kicks off, there is a chance that we can see a slow return to a “new normal”.

Will Sweden be open this summer?

I have no crystal bowl, so please take the following with a scoop of salt, but here are a few things I see:

  • Museums: many are talking about re-opening soon, using different tactics to make sure to keep visitors safe, e.g. limiting the number of visitors, etc.
  • Restaurant: are open
  • Hotels: are open. If travel restrictions ease domestically, we expect a lot of Swedes to vacation domestically this summer
  • Beaches: okay, we’re not Italy or Spain or Florida, but we have beaches and they are public and our local “CDC”, Folkhälsomyndigheten, is going to issue rules on how to sunbathe/swim safely this summer. Social distancing applies.
  • Cruises/tours: Oh my, that’s the difficult one, isn’t it? When will cruises resume? We were scheduled for one in late June and it was canceled, so nobody really knows whey they resume operation and if some countries will apply different rules than others. We simply don’t know yet, but I would assume that things will relax at some point and that visitors will be welcome, given proper social distancing on tour buses, etc.
  • Public transport: open and functioning, but alas, social distancing is paramount and this is the most challenging aspect, as buses, streetcars, and ferries are often tight spaces. Our local boats to the archipelago have limited the number of passengers and tourists risk being stranded as locals and their necessary trips (to work, etc.) are given priority.
  • Trains/flights: Trains have never ceased running, even though their schedules have been greatly reduced. Flights have ceased between major cities but not to the rural areas where they are a vital part of the infrastructure, sustained by government funding. However, we can see a gradual return to normalcy. SAS is once again flying between Stockholm and Gothenburg, and Lufthansa has announced a daily flight between Gothenburg and Frankfurt starting May 18. Please note that things can change quickly and that different airlines apply different rules for flights, for instance regarding face masks.

So what does this mean for a trip to Sweden?

Plenty of space and no one in sight…

If I were wanting to visit Sweden this summer, I would try to wait with any booking. We just don’t know what might happen yet. Our Public Health Agency seems to doubt that we’ll be able to vacation internationally this summer and they are not even sure if domestic vacations will be possible. The Swedish State Department has issued a travel advisory against any foreign travel until June 15. I don’t think we’ll get any updates before that, Depending on how you will travel to come here, you also need to consider any transit countries.

The safest bet is to wait and see. Don’t book quite yet. But rest assured that Sweden is waiting for you in all its beauty and with all the vast open spaces we offer, providing ample opportunities to discover our nature in a safe way even in the future. Whenever we open up for business again, we’ll welcome you with open arms, although we might need to abstain from a warm hug until we have a vaccine against covid-19.

Welcome back then!

What kind of tourist are you?

Whenever I have the pleasure of taking guests to show them my city I wonder: will they be happy to see things from the outside or would they rather go inside? This might sound like a weird question to you, but allow me to explain. One of the most frequent things I do is walking tours. I pick up my guests at their hotel and we go for a walk where I show them the beauty of Gothenburg.

Would you like to go inside?

Would you like to go inside? Is it worth it? Is it even possible?

There are so many great things to see in a city, but when you have a limited amount of time, we tend to simply scratch the surface. We walk past some of the most amazing buildings but don’t go in. We point out “here’s this museum, and this is City Hall, and over there is where the local parliament resides, and it’s a beautiful building.” We never go inside which is a shame.

There are two main reasons why: a) most buildings aren’t open to visitors, which is a shame. Our local stock exchange is one of the most impressive places we have to show, but it’s only open once every blue moon at specific times, which never suits visitors from abroad. I can tell them that their president or prime minister had dinner here with our king, but I can’t show them.

The second reason is time. Even if the building were open, if you have four hours for a walking tour, there’s not time to spend one or two hours in just one building.

You need a reason to come back…

Prosecco on St. Mark's Square and live music at night is one of the "musts" for me in Venice, no matter how many times I return.
Prosecco on St. Mark’s Square and live music at night is one of the “musts” for me in Venice, no matter how many times I return.

This is my MO for every place I visit: I miss something important, simply because I’d like to come back. And on a second visit, I may not have to do the “usual” again, but I can dive deeper. I’ve been to Venice countless times since I was a child, and while I have my “have to’s”, e.g. to drink a glass of Prosecco on St. Mark’s Square after dark and listen to live music, these days, my visits to this amazing city allow me to visit places most first-time visitors don’t see.

As a tour guide here in Gothenburg, I kind of see it as my responsibility to water my guests’ mouths, to make them want to come back for more. It’s a delicate balance and I always make sure to learn about hteir interests ahead of time, to make sure they experience exactly what they want, whether it’s walking past a building or going in (if possible.)

National Geographic wants you to… visit Gothenburg!

I can’t blame them…

Gothenburg is a heavenly destination for foodies. I’ve always known that. Well, maybe it hasn’t always been, but the chefs here in town have a thing or two for fish and seafood and in the past decade or so, plenty of amazing restaurants serve superb food.

I recently came across this article on National Geographic where they point out Gothenburg as a top destination in 2019 to visit if you love food. Who am I to argue with National Geographic?

They particularly point to “Salt & Sill”, a restaurant about 90 minutes north of Gothenburg on the small island of Klädesholmen. I was there just last week and can confirm that it’s still an amazing place. I reviewed it on my TripAdvisor account.

But that’s not the only great place in the region

There are so many more great places to eat, even in the city itself. Some I’ve written about in my DIY-guide which you can purchase right here on the site. But let me just mention one of my personal favorites. Expensive, but amazing food: Sjömagasinet.

I was there last week and the food is superb. Below’s what my dessert looked like. And it was as delicious as it looks. So come visit Gothenburg, from food trucks to the best experimental cuisine, we’ve got you covered!

Amazing strawberry dessert with Swedish “egg-cheese” (ask me for a recipe) and meringues.

Expect the unexpected when you tour with us

I could promise you the moon, but I won’t…

What I can promise you though is the unexpected. Something you might not have thought about, or even considered with regards to my town. Yeah, I claim total bragging rights here, I know.

Let your soul dangle for a bit

When people think about Gothenburg, associations vary. Most people probably haven’t heard of our fair city, that we are home of the world’s largest truck manufacturing company, AB Volvo, or that we were once a sneeze away from becoming the capital of all Nordic countries. It’s a long story…

We are a great many things, and we have much to offer. I’m sure you’ll have seen that Gothenburg sits right on the ocean’s edge, on Sweden’s west coast. But did you also know that we are one of the greenest cities on the planet? There are parks, forests, and meadows surrounding the city and permeating it everywhere.

That greenery can also be found on our islands. On Styrsö, where I live, we have some twenty plus kilometers of official hiking trails along beaches, through our villages and the forest. You’d never know you’re on an island. Today, I was out walking and stopped to just listen to the birds singing. It’s a 360º view of what I say, just so I could capture the song. Don’t get dizzy. Close your eyes and let that soul of yours dangle for sixty-one seconds:

Yes, this video was taken on a small island just off the coast of Gothenburg, less than 300 meters from the nearest beach, but you’d never guess. This is one of the secret hikes on the island, known only to locals.

No matter what it is you expect to see in Gothenburg, expect the unexpected.

That’s a promise! Feel free to contact us today for a personal quote for your tour of our fair city. We’ll make sure to meet your expectations, and yeah, surpass those…

Take a walk, discover the small gems that await you…

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Eiffel Towers, Taj Mahals or Grand Canyons are all great, but sometimes, a sign is all you need to get excited

I live on an island, off the coast of Gothenburg. Administratively, we are part of the political city of Gothenburg. Yet often enough, the city feels far, far away. I walk a lot (part of my health regimen) and my island, Styrsö, offers miles and miles of treks through the forest, along our beautiful beaches, and through our four neighborhoods.

Just yesterday I discovered that the organization who looks after our forest walkways put up a new sign, a small gem. I hadn’t seen it last week. It made me smile. I love focusing on small details like that.

7,000 years of history on a simple wooden plaque

Why not lift your gaze and take in a horizon? Who knows what light spectacle that might await you...
Why not lift your gaze and take in a horizon? Who knows what light spectacle that might await you…

The sign stood below a meadow in the middle of the forest. The meadow is well-known on the island. Open-air festivals and concerts have taken place for a long time. What I didn’t know was that this was the oldest place where we’ve found traces of human habitation on the island. 7,000 years ago, people took boats out to Styrsö to fish (presumably) and they left behind flint.

What surprised me the most is that back then (not a very long time in the grand scheme of Earth’s history) the meadow was a beach. Where I stood, reading the plaque, my feet would’ve been lapped by gentle waves coming ashore. My imagination had been fired up.

Putting the consequences of global warming in a new perspective

This illustration by Jan Slavik from a small book on the history of the island portrays how a typical scene may have appeared to a visitor.
This illustration by Jan Slavik from a small book* on the history of the island portrays how a typical scene may have appeared to a visitor.

When those first (that we know of) humans visited Styrsö, the sea levels were twenty meters above what they are now. That’s a whopping 65.6 ft. I recently read that if all of Greenland’s ice were to melt, global sea levels would rise by seven meters. But there’s not just the ice on Greenland, let’s not forget about Antarctica.

Our house is elevated some eight meters (26 ft) above sea level. By the end of this century, during my son’s lifetime, we might actually lose our house to rising sea levels. That’s a scary prospect. Yes, over time, and that includes the huge shifts in tectonic plates, sea levels have greatly varied, but the changes that we are experiencing now, are unprecedented in terms of speed. The main reason why our islands have emerged from the ocean isn’t due to sinking sea levels, but rising land (as Scandinavia had been pressed into the Earth’s mantle during the last ice age. It is still rising to this very day.) It took 3,000 years for sea levels to sink ten meters, it might take less than 300 for them to rise again… Details on a walk, but mind-boggling in the great scheme of things.

One small plaque had me thinking for hours…

As a tourist, I tend (like most) to focus on the big things that a new destination has to offer. Yet oddly, it is often the small discoveries that will excite you the most. A flower, a tree, a facade or why not a wooden plaque informing you about an unexpected detail of a place’s history, whisking you away to a distant past, igniting your imagination, almost like a great book.

A great tour guide will be able to show you these small places, these details in the shadow of the grand tourist attractions that beckon us from afar. By all means, enjoy the towers, the monuments, but don’t forget to spend some time hunting for the small details. They might prove to be more memorable in the long run.

*Styrsö från Istid till Nutid, ISBN 91-85488-03-8

Fall colors grace the fair city of Gothenburg

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Indian summer IS a thing around here

It’s fall, and according to the Swedish Meteorological Institute (SMHI), winter is on its way south. Sweden is a huge country, and while the northernmost parts are already snow-covered, the south is still, meteorologically, enjoying summer. I don’t know about you, but to me, these definitions are all a bit academic.

The Swedish Met Office’s strange definition of our seasons

In our country, the met office considers it fall if the temperatures over a period of five days have not surpassed ten degrees, but only (this is Sweden after all) if it happens after August 1. Silly, I know. Same with winter. We can’t have “spring” before February 15, no matter how hot it is.

Personally, I find the astronomical definitions more useful using equinoxes and solstices or even just the calendar: September-November is fall, December – February is winter etc. But I can see the value that SMHI’s definition has to their research and the maps they publish of the progress of a season, e.g. fall.

However, it leads to strange events, such as the fact that we currently have two seasons in Gothenburg: fall in the East and North-East and summer in the South and West of the city, due to the warm ocean waters.

Fall is the advent of colors around here (and elsewhere, and a peaceful and quiet time)

I like fall. Not as much as the summer, but it is a season when things calm down around us. Nature gets ready to go back to a slumber where plants and animals alike recuperate and get ready for yet another cycle of life. Humanity doesn’t really do that. For us, fall usually means back to school, back to work, back onto the treadmill.

In the hectics of our busy schedules with work and school, it’s a boon to be able to go out into nature to enjoy the changes in color, see the quiet ocean, pick mushrooms and just be outdoors. Come winter with its rain- and snowstorms, it’ll be too cold and wet to spend a lot of time outside.

Some pictures of what Gothenburg looks like right now…

To give you an impression of what our fair city looks like right now, have a look at these pictures that I’ve taken in the past couple of weeks. Enjoy!

Fall brings later sunrises and often provides us with the most amazing colorful spectacles in the morning.
Fall brings later sunrises and often provides us with the most amazing colorful spectacles in the morning.

And, as befits a country in the far north, the sun's trajectory is flatter and flatter and by three, four o'clock it is already low (we're still in DST), providing the typical pale blue skies.
And, as befits a country in the far north, the sun’s trajectory is flatter and flatter and by three, four o’clock it is already low (we’re still in DST), providing the typical pale blue skies.

Even in the middle of the day, the sun no longer rises as high as she does in the summer, but her light is still warming.
Even in the middle of the day, the sun no longer rises as high as she does in the summer, but her light is still warming.

A typical, sunny fall day in Gothenburg. The picture is taken in Färjenäs on the island of Hisingen, where the ferries used to dock before the bridge connected it to the mainland.
A typical, sunny fall day in Gothenburg. The picture is taken in Färjenäs on the island of Hisingen, where the ferries used to dock before the bridge connected it to the mainland.

A shot from the same place, straight across the river where the old port brewery has been turned into an upscale hotel, and where the run-ins of the old castle of Gothenburg can be found.
A shot from the same place, straight across the river where the old port brewery has been turned into an upscale hotel, and where the run-ins of the old castle of Gothenburg can be found.

Finally, some color. I don't recommend eating this mushroom, amanita muscaria, but they sure do make a pretty picture.
Finally, some color. I don’t recommend eating this mushroom, Amanita muscaria, but they sure do make a pretty picture.

If you have questions, comments or plan to visit Gothenburg, send me a message. We look forward to showing you our town.